Surfing Traced Back to Hawaii






by Willis Christopher


The Origins of Surfing: From Polynesia to Hawaii

The earliest European Escapade to the small islands of Hawaii

The very first ever European trip to the islands of Hawaii was in the year 1778, lead by Captain James Cook with his team to their 3rd journey to the Pacific. Cook reached a stop in the Major Island of Hawaii which actually caused him to be killed by the Hawaiians when he had done a reckless attempt to kidnap the high chief. Captain James Cook is definitely identified presently as being the popular European Traveler who uncovered Hawaii.

Soon after his death, his command has been taken by First Lieutenant James King who was bestowed with the responsibility to accomplish the narrative stories in Cook's journal. Lt. King committed his life in the expedition and this brought him to watch the very first folks who experienced surfing. In his log, Cook documented in full detail just how these folks (Hawaiians) consider surfing as a vital aspect of the Hawaiian culture, religion as well as beliefs of the islands. And then this narration became the very first printed account on surfing.

In two full pages of the journal, he described surf riding as employed by the citizens at Kealakekua Bay on the Kona coast on the Great Island. He expressed it as being the "Sport of Kings", an old Hawaiian tradition which entails lying down or standing on extensive, hard wood surfboards along with riding on huge waves within the ocean in a tremendous speed.

In the year 1779, Surfing was not just a sports activity or a mere recreational hobby for the Hawaiians; it's much more of a form of art which has been significantly rooted within their tradition. Hawaiians refer to it as he'e nalu and this stands for wave sliding. Competence of the skills had made common residents within Hawaii well known with the way they manage themselves in the ocean waves.

Several leaders of your Big Island had been greatly deemed for their surfing expertise. During these days, the chiefs or ali'i have allocated reefs and beach where they surfed. However, there had also been reefs and beaches exactly where commoners can surf. Commoners usually rode the ocean waves on surfboards that reach 12 feet high, while the ali'I rode the waves on boards that had been as long as 24 ft.

When Captain Cook came to The hawaiian islands, surfing has been intensely rooted in the Hawaiian practice and myths. There were spots labeled just after legendary surfing incidents, there had been wonderful chants prepared by the master surfers ("kahuna") to baptize brand new surfboards, and to support individuals who challenged the great ocean waves. There were also legendary stories declared with regards to the lives risked, heroic ocean deeds by chiefs as well as commoners, love pairs made and broken because of surfing




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